For Chiara’s Compleanno, I let her pick the ingredient, so she picked something we have enjoyed together many times: Sweetbreads. To create more of a full theme, I incorporated various off-cuts of both meat (cow feet, duck bacon, chicken livers and hearts, fish heads) and vegetables (carrot tops, lemon peels, celery root), plus a shout-out to garbage food to complete the theme. But when my sweetbreads arrived, there was only 1 pair, enough for 2 dishes but no more. In the spirit of cooking with the parts one has, I adjusted the menu and created a 4-offal menu with sweetbreads highlighted in 2 courses. Wine pairings are with the assistance of Javier, my coworker — we enjoyed a vino verde, a Chilean Cabarnet called Casillero del Diablo, and the first chardonnay I’ve ever really loved — Acacia 2011.